Here are the super spiffy firing schedules that I use for fusing and slumping. These work for both window and bottle (which have similar COE’s):
Full fuse firing schedule
(1/4″ window or 2 layers bottle glass, sheets, not frit!)
| Ramp Rate (F) | Hold Temp (F) | Hold Time | | | Ramp Rate (C) | Hold Temp (C) | Hold Time |
| 300/hr | 500 | 15 min | | | 148/hr | 260 | 15 min |
| 250 | 1100 | 10 min | | | 121/hr | 593 | 10 min |
| 250 | 1550 | 8 min | | | 121/hr | 843 | 8 min |
| 9999/hr | 1030 | 20 min | | | 9999/hr | 555 | 20 min |
| 50/hr | 940 | 0 | | | 10/hr | 504 | 0 |
| 100/hr | 740 | 0 | | | 38/hr | 393 | 0 |
| off to room temp | | | off to room temp |
Slump firing schedule
(1/4″ or 2 layers bottle glass)
| Ramp Temp (F) | Hold Temp (F) | Hold Time | | | Ramp Temp (C) | Hold Temp (C) | Hold Time |
| 200/hr | 500 | 15 min | | | 93/hr | 260 | 15 |
| 250/hr | 1100 | 10 min | | | 121/hr | 593 | 10 |
| 250/hr | 1385 | 3 min | | | 121/hr | 752 | 3 |
| 9999 | 1030 | 20 min | | | 9999 | 555 | 20 |
| 50/hr | 940 | 0 | | | 10 | 504 | 0 |
| 100/hr | 740 | 0 | | | 38 | 393 | 0 |
These are the firing schedules I use in the side fire Skutt kiln. The top fire Denver is the same, EXCEPT, the top temperatures are 1530 F (832 C) for fuse and 1340 F (726 C) for slump.
You can go faster and hold for less time with very small pieces, and slower ramps with longer holds for very large/thick pieces.
Pot Melt/Casting Schedule (3/8″ final thickness) (9.5mm)
| Ramp Tem (F) | Hold Tem (F) | Hold Time | | | Ramp Temp (C) | Hold Temp (C) | Hold Time |
| 300 | 500 | 40 | | | 148 | 260 | |
| 300 | 1100 | 40 | | | 148 | 593 | |
| 350 | 1850 | 18 | | | 176 | 1010 | |
| 9999 | 1030 | 45 | | | 9999 | 555 | |
| 50 | 850 | 0 | | | 10 | 455 | |
| 100 | 650 | 0 | | | 38 | 398 |
This is a very basic casting schedule. If you change the final thickness, you must also adjust the hold time on the annealing.
Keep in mind that every kiln is different, so start here and see what you get. If your edges are still square, go hotter. If you’re getting severe needling around the edges, your top temperature is too hot.
Please note that these schedules will not work for frit in jewelry molds, you need a much higher temperature for that type of firing.
Happy experimenting!
Related posts:
[...] With A Past Just another WordPress site HomeAboutWholesale ← Recycled Glass Firing Schedules [...]
[...] under the glass and fused. I like to put the fiber paper in the mold, fire the glass using a full fuse temperature, but with a top temperature of 1485 (top fire) or 1500 (side fire). This gives you [...]
[...] 5: Fire! I do have some suggested firing schedules if you aren’t sure where to start. Fired Glass over Fiber [...]
[...] pieces of Low E were fired at a full fuse in a side fire kiln. I also included our friend Plain Glass for contrast. These pieces were fired one with the film [...]
[...] prepared to test! Use a full fuse firing schedule first and see how much detail your tile picks up. If you have deeply carved texture, you may need [...]
[...] a tack fuse schedule (full fuse firing schedule, minus about 125 degrees from the top [...]
[...] are some firing schedules for recycled glass if you aren’t sure where to start. I use a full fuse for this [...]
[...] Ack! I need a firing schedule, but not this one! Where are the basic firing and slumping schedules? [...]
[...] with a regular firing schedule, and guess what you get? Martini Glasses post [...]
[...] my standard recycled glass fusing schedule, I flattened six different [...]
[...] to prep and load. I finished loading at 4:30 Tuesday afternoon and set the firing schedule for a full fuse with a 20 minute soak at the high temperature. At 5 a.m. Wednesday morning, I have [...]
[...] 4. Cut a piece of glass large enough to cover the entire cut pattern. I’m using float glass for this project. Fire to a full fuse. [...]
[...] 5. Fire to a full fuse. [...]
[...] 4. Cut a piece of glass in the desired size and shape. Fire to full fuse: [...]
[...] Then fire to a full fuse: [...]
[...] used a standard fusing schedule to make my beads. In fact, it’s nice to be able to just tuck these little molds in around [...]
[...] 5. Cut glass to fit and fire with a full fuse schedule. [...]
[...] firing schedule I used is the standard fusing schedule, but I extended the top hold to 30 minutes and adjusted the cool down to accommodate the thicker [...]
[...] the bottle bottom with the outside of the base up and fuse over the fiber [...]
[...] glass to fit the kiln carving pattern and fuse. I’m using the bottom of an empty pickle bottle for this [...]
[...] Cut a piece of glass to fit the pattern. This pattern will work with a large bottle cylinder, as well as with recycled window glass, then full fuse. [...]
[...] This pattern is specifically designed to work with the body cylinder of a standard size wine or spirits bottle. You can, of course, use any other glass that strikes your fancy instead. After you have placed the pattern and the glass on a prepared kiln shelf, full fuse. [...]
[...] to a full fuse. The raised corner pieces will fuse fully to the base, but won’t completely flatten [...]
[...] You can see some of my copper inclusions have shifted slightly. I’m okay with that, but if that type of thing makes you nuts, glue down each copper piece with a tiny spot of white glue to keep it in place until it’s fused. When you are ready to go, place the entire project on a prepared kiln shelf prior to full fusing. [...]
[...] fiber form we just made, and one on a traditional floral form that has been kilnwashed. Using a slump firing schedule, I can slump both pieces of glass at [...]
[...] And fire to a full fuse: [...]
[...] Recycled Glass Firing Schedules [...]
[...] Step 5. Fuse using a full fuse schedule. [...]