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Q & A Monday, 3/4/19

Q & A Mondays are answers to reader questions submitted via email or social media.  All personal information has been removed for privacy reasons and messages have been edited for clarity.  You may submit your own questions through the About/Contact page.

Q: I am using the precious metal ceramic lustres.  I’m still testing at the various temperature, but getting nowhere so any advice would be most welcome.

Continue reading Q & A Monday, 3/4/19
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Q & A Monday 1-14-2019

Q & A Mondays are answers to reader questions submitted via email or social media.  All personal information has been removed for privacy reasons and messages have been edited for clarity.  You may submit your own questions through the About/Contact page.

Q: I purchased your kit of supplies for making original shaped bowls. Sorry, I don’t remember the real name. It came with no instructions and I can’t find the video demonstration. Can you help with this please? Thank you.

A: The video is permanently online, you can see it here:

It’s the very first show we did together, and doesn’t say the topic in the title, so, very hard to locate logically.

I’m glad you enjoy the classes, I very much like teaching them, especially because I can help and ‘meet’ people I would never have a chance to meet otherwise.  It’s really amazing when you think about it!

Let me know how the slumping web kit goes, and if I can help with anything else.  Have a great week!

Q: I realize all kilns are different but which of your fusing schedules do you recommend for your Bottle Bottom Molds when using recycled bottle bottoms? I just want to make sure my kiln temperature gets hot enough for this process.
You have a lot of great choices. I am trying to decide which ones to purchase.

A: I use the full fuse firing schedule for bottle bottom molds, it works great!

Q: Sorry for the late response but thank you Jodi. I have another question for you if you don’t mind. I am trying to full fuse a beer bottle that has an enamel label on it. I would like to preserve the artwork on the label.During a full fuse, the enamel fades when it is face up. Face down, it fades a less. Have you found a way to keep the coloring during a full fuse? The next thing I was going to try was shifting transparent powder on the enamel before full fusing but it is a different coeficient, COE 90. Have you tried this? If so, have you had success? What have you done?I appreciate your help and look forward to hearing back from you.

A: It seems like some of the enamels are just really low quality in terms of firing.  I have noticed that same thing with firing the label down toward the shelf.  It does seem like the enamel gets quite liquid during firing when it is shelf side down and sticks to the shelf paper, when scrubbed off, the image is not shiny any more.  I did one piece that I flattened label side down then covered the label with Thomson Enamel float compatible enamel in clear, and fired it again label side up.  It did look good, but what a pain!

I do have a couple of tutorials about enamel labels, although they don’t  have any more information than you already know.

I have had better luck with lower slump temperatures, rather than full fuse if that helps at all.

Let me know how it works out and if you come up with a better solution, I know a lot of people would love to know!

Q: I read your article on testing fusible decals on glass.  Can I use my small jewelry kiln for the decals or do I have to use my larger kiln

A: I think you can use your small jewelry kiln for decals, as long as you can control the temperature so they don’t get too hot.  I have no experience with microwave kilns though, so if that’s what you have, some tests are probably in order.

Let me know how it works out for you,

Jodi

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Q & A Monday April 2, 2018

 

Q & A Mondays are answers to reader questions submitted via email or social media.  All personal information has been removed for privacy reasons.  You may submit your own questions through the About/Contact page.

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Q: Just finished your online class – that was intense – lots of ideas are running around in my head of all of the possibilities. Thank you so much for sharing. Have never been on Curious Mondo – this week was my first time 3-7-18. Continue reading Q & A Monday April 2, 2018

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Q & A Monday, September 4 edition

Bottles for fusing

Today I’m answering reader emails, just in case you have the same questions. If you do have a melting glass question, please let me know through the form on the About/Contact page.

Onward!

Q:  Hi. I just received the five molds I ordered for slumping bottle bottoms. But I have a question. What type of kiln wash do you recommend?? The one I have now I don’t know the name of, it is almost gone and the box got wet. So just have the bag. But to remove it from my kiln shelves, I have to work the shelf over with drywall screen. I feel like this would destroy the details in the mold. Also, five coats might fill in the detail, so to obliterate it. I looked thru all your supply offerings and found no kiln wash, so am afraid to start playing with my new molds. (Not good since I have a big show coming up in 5 weeks!) Can you please help me out??

A:  It hadn’t even occurred to me, but of course you are absolutely right, I should have kiln wash available, as well as a tutorial.  I usually do just two to three even thin coats to preserve the details. You’ll want to use an artists brush rather than a traditional kiln wash brush. When I need to remove it, I use a firm bristled plastic brush, the kind for cleaning sinks.

[Edited to add:  Glass With a Past kiln wash is in the research stage, look for it soon!]

Q:  First, I love your work and think all your tutorials are fantastic! If I lived in Utah, I’d come take classes. I have always been drawn to glass art and have taken a few local classes in glass blowing, but it is too intensive for me and I don’t want to work with frit. I would like to try recycled glass bottle fusing (donut rings for wind chimes and jewelry to start). Could you recommend a starter kiln that won’t break the bank? What qualities or features should I look for? Is there a website (besides eBay) or company where I might purchase a used kiln?

A: I think the best beginner kiln is one that is programmable. It is possible to use a manually controlled kiln, but if you are learning a new art form, also having to learn how to manually fire is discouraging. I also recommend at least a 12″ shelf if you can get it. 6″ kilns are tempting because they are often less expensive, but everyone I know (including myself) wanted a larger kiln immediately. My first kiln had 15″ octagon shelved and I used that for 7 years before upgrading.

In terms of used kilns, I don’t know of any one place that sells them. I cruise our local want ads, and do see reasonable kilns fairly often, but they go fast, so you have to be diligent. Another option, if you are on facebook, is a group called Fused Glass Connect, or Glass Artists Connect (I am in too many groups) but it is where people list things for sale. There may be someone near you selling their kiln or upgrading.

As far as brands go, I have a skutt and a denver and have been very happy with both. I think you’d like pretty much any of the large kiln makers, they are all good.

Q: During your class at curious mondo you had a set of heat cured paints. How and where can I get these.

It looks like a great lady’s night of wine and snack at my shop. I have a small studio carved out of the floor space and a pretty decent size dual media kiln.

A: I’m going through old emails and realized I hadn’t answered this one. I bought mine at Joanne’s, they were mixed in with the other acrylic paints, you have to look at the labels carefully to make sure they are the glass ones. It seems like they had a little sticker with a picture of a wine glass on the top. There are several brands, I don’t know that any one is better than the others, it seems like a personal preference kind of thing.

I used them for one of my weekly evening classes, and people loved them. We did flattened wine bottle clocks, I flattened and drilled the bottles ahead of time, and the ladies painted them. Work great.

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Q & A Monday, August 14 edition

Today I’m answering reader questions that came in via email. All personal information has been removed for privacy reasons. If you have a question that you must, simply must have an answer to, send it on over via the About/Contact page.

Q: Good afternoon Jodi,
I have a question about the piece you created using mica and showed it on your web site a few years ago, it was a beautiful plate called “Lava”

Would you be able to tell me how you created this piece as I would like to try and make a similar plate.

Keep up the good work as I have learned a lot from your newsletters and now do quite a few things using window glass and thick glass shelves that I acquired. Continue reading Q & A Monday, August 14 edition

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Q & A Monday, August 7 Edition

Today I’m answering reader questions that came in via email.  All personal details have been removed for privacy reasons.  If you have a glass question that simply must be answered, give me a shout through the About/Contact page.

Q:  Hi there,

I am getting ready to fire my first Bombay Sapphire bottle and I wondered what you do with the writing/ink on the sides of the bottle. I was looking at the pictures in the Tips for Removing Labels and I couldn’t see anything specifically about it, and it looks like the print is still on the bottles in the picture.

A:  The lettering is an enamel, so it does often stay on. I’m not sure if etching cream will take it off or not, I usually just roll with it. If you really, really don’t want it, you could grind it off with a dremel and diamond bit before you fire.  Oh, I should have mentioned, if you are selling your work, people LOVE the little enamel letters that stay on. Odd, but there you go! Continue reading Q & A Monday, August 7 Edition

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Q & A Monday, July 31 Edition

diamond carving bits

Today I’m answering reader emails that came in via email or private message.  If you have a glass question that needs answering, please send it on over through the About/Contact page.  All personal details are removed for privacy reasons.

Q: Hi there – me again! I have finally purchased a wet tile saw (after wasting too much money on stupid score and scald bottle cutters AND a diamond band saw that sucked) – and then, I bought a hugely expensive glass blade for it.

So I’m using it for the first time today and almost every time it gets to the last bit it cracks, breaks, or chips. What am I doing wrong? Too fast? Too slow? Torquing the bottle? Any suggestions you can give me would be appreciated. I’ve watched a ton of YouTube videos (including yours) but they are all about process and not technique.

Thanks for any help you can offer! Continue reading Q & A Monday, July 31 Edition

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Monday Q & A, April 24, 2017

Bottles for fusing

Today I’m answering reader questions that came in via email.  All personal information has been removed for privacy reasons.  If you have a question that you must, simply must have an answer to, send it on over via the About/Contact page.

 

Q:   I purchased your Recycled Glass Garden Art class this weekend. Love it so far! (Haven’t completed it yet).

You were talking about the Rock Polishing Grit and said you would put in the notes for the class where you purchase yours. I don’t have access to those notes, since I didn’t watch the free class. Can you please tell me where you purchase?
Thank you. So glad you are doing these classes online. LOVE them!!!

Continue reading Monday Q & A, April 24, 2017

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Q & A Monday, April 3, 2017

Q:  Hi, Love your website and am planning to make an order with you. I am brand new to the recycled glass hobby fun.
I am wanting to make sun catchers our of old glass. I really do not know what I am doing yet, but am a fast
learner and have been doing a lot of reading. I have seen sun catchers online and they appear to be more pressed with a rounded edge than flat. I am at a loss as to what mold would yield this type of sun catcher. I have attached a photo from the net. I am in love with that look and don’t know how to achieve it. I am so excited to get started. I am also wanting to make sun catchers for a cause here locally to help fund raise for random community needs. Would love to know how to make my own molds to use for glass works. Thank you from Texas! Continue reading Q & A Monday, April 3, 2017